Yellow engine light

Hello i have a transit lwb 350 ,2007 today the yellow engine warning light came on any body had this happen thanks

Google ford transit forum, you might have to sign up, but they are very knowledgeable, good luck

Is it a spanner symbol? My Mk 6 has a red spanner which comes on when you've passed a service interval. It's cleared by performing a special sequence of full throttle / ignition etc.

If it's a symbol depicting an engine it could be anything - you'll need to have the fault codes read.

If it's the yellow engine symbol its your engine management system. As Zenith says, could be anything, can also come on for no particular reason. Try diconnecting positive battery terminal and leave it for about 15 minutes then reconnect. This will reset the EMS. If it comes on again you'll need to have the fault codes read. Don't forget to reset your clock, etc. Good luck.

You're all wrong. The yellow light coming on means that his missiles are now armed.

Manadon Despatch said:

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You're all wrong. The yellow light coming on means that his missiles are now armed.

Its a transit, not a citroen c15 champ

Thank Folks i called AA out in the end, he said it was the erg valve he disconnected it and the van drives better now, but he said its up to you if you replace it the warning light will be on all the time, the problem with that is you wont know if something else goes wrong because the warning light is permanently on so it may be best to fit a new one :)

If you take it off you can clean it up with break and clutch fluid cleaner easy job on the vauxhall combo it just getts caked up with carbon

Fit a new one and use good fuel like shell vpower or use an additve like millers powerplus, you shouldn't have anymore problems.

Its EGR (exhaust gas recirculation). Supposed to enhance efficiency but on some engines people find you get better mpg if you block it off.

Stick a piece of black insulating tape over it!

Take it to a reputable garage and have it plugged in to get the fault codes it could be any number of things

I've had a yellow light on my bloody car for over a year, had a mechanic diagnose it while it was in for something else, and if it seems to be driving ok, it generally means you've got a dodgy connector on the warning light, nothing more.

So I'd go for MK's advice and go with the black tape

No yellow lights on, on my car thats because its Japanese and a honda

Speed Couriers (Stansted) said:

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I've had a yellow light on my bloody car for over a year, had a mechanic diagnose it while it was in for something else, and if it seems to be driving ok, it generally means you've got a dodgy connector on the warning light, nothing more.

So I'd go for MK's advice and go with the black tape

I'd definitely investigate further as you may well only need a bit of a clean up and/or a bit of black tape. All this diagnostics kit is often operated by fitters nowadays that just replace an alleged faulty part, it can be hard to come by a genuine mechanic that knows his onions.

I had a problem many years ago with a Cavalier that I had, it kept going into limp mode every now and again for no apparent reason. Took it to my local Vauxhall dealer, they duly stung me for £500 for diagnostics to be plugged in telling them I had a couple of sensor faults and replacing said sensors (they were apparently very awkwardly located). It started doing it again not that long afterwards so I googled the issue, found a helpful site that told me to use a paperclip to get the fault codes, which again indicated the same two faulty sensors cam and crank (iirc). I physically investigated the sensors and found that the cam sensor wire had worn through its outer plastic and was occasionally touching the engine causing a fault. Twisted a small piece of insulating tape around the said wire and all was cured, it never happened again and never showed a fault on the crank which I am guessing is because it was previously being mislead by the cam sensor fault.

Hello, just to let you know, i took my transit to a local mechanic today, he says he sees this a lot with these egr valves, leave it with me for an hour, when i went back it was all done plus the yellow engine light was no longer on, He soaked it in diesel and brushed it i assume with a wire brush? Anyway its running sweet again now, so if anyone says you need a new egr valve, i suggest getting it cleaned 1st its a lot cheaper.

Also check the wiring near the connector on said EGR valve as it tends to become brittle from the heat of the engine and therefore becomes brittle and can break. I know :)